This week I made a visit up to Sydney to visit some of my fellow Healey buddies.
I test fit one of my new Tonneau covers on a friends BN1, and got to catch up and talk Healey's -
Of course while I was in the area I made a quick stop in to see my BN1 at Jetstream Auto and Custom.
Jason has the chassis all rigged up in a rotisserie and he's already cut off the old rotten outer sills, as he's preparing it for wet blasting.
He tried using a pressure washer on the underside to clean off the mud and expose the original undercoating on the rear chassis around the rear axle. - What he discovered was quite interesting!
Here's some good pics of the underside condition - the front cross-member will definitely be getting replaced! as well as the outer sill areas:
Most interestingly though, It has been found in the past that the factory seems to have applied a small amount of undercoating - by hand, to only a few surfaces of the rear chassis area:
Often under the boot floor, (sometimes including the protruding gas tank!) - and on the vertical boot bulkhead surface immediately behind and over top of the rear axle.
Most cars have shown this undercoating applied before the body was finally painted, so the black undercoat would have been painted body colour.
However, my car seems to exhibit the undercoat being applied over the paint!
There does not appear to be any undercoating under the blue body colour on my car, nor was any found under the boot floor at all!
What does turn up is black undercoat, clearly brushed on by hand, on top of the blue paint- only on the 2 bulkhead panels behind and over the rear axle.
Of course the first thing that comes to mind is when was this applied? is it indeed factory? - it certainly looks like it is and, fits the previous descriptions of location and style of hand brushing - but this ones over the paint! ?
There you have it concours guys - the plot thickens!
In other news, I've packed up my original front and rear shocks and will be sending them out east to be rebuilt at Apple Hydraulics.
Until next time -
I recently started on a job for a customer who has an un-restored 1956 Healey BN2 in Healey blue with the rare Teal blue interior.colours.
While Teal is a rare interior colour, it's one that I'm quite familiar with;
My late father Rich Chrysler had a '56 BN2 that he restored back in the early 90's that also had remnants of a Teal blue interior. It sent him on a massive research hunt for others like it so he could restore his to original spec..
With the help of fellow Healey upholstery experts Martin Macgregor and Peter Svilans, here's they came up with back in 1992:
Since then we've found several other un-restored cars with the teal interior combo appearing in blue cars and even a few white cars throughout 1956 until the end of BN2 production.
We've also found a few early Blue BN4's with the Teal blue trim combined with cream piping as late as March '57.
With this most recent job being sent to me, I've had the opportunity to take a fresh look and study how the Teal blue colour faded so differently among the differing materials of leather, vinyl and Armacord it was seen on.
Having been in the Healey upholstery business for over 15yrs now I've seen A LOT of original trim!
The key's to remember when studying original colours and narrowing down specific shades is: Exposure!
ie: materials that have spent 50+yrs in the sun and elements are going to bleach and fade in wild ways that can be very confusing for restorers to decipher.
It's important to find areas that have never seen daylight or exposure to moisture, cleaners etc...look in dark areas and under edges and seams...
In the below pic, I'm trying to match the original leather shade on the bottom of this cushion - not being fooled by the brighter colour above that it's become over time...
Here are some more pics of original teal found on my friend Richard's BN2 - again showing how the exposed vinyl faded to a greyish green, while the leather got more brilliant over time...
Of course most Healey owners will recognize this standard shade of dark blue with grey piping. All the materials of leather, vinyl, Armacord, and carpet were in similar shades of dark blue.
This dark blue interior colour scheme was seen in cars painted Healey Blue/Healey Grey, and also available in cars painted Old English White, and Coronet Cream.
It's worth noting that this standard dark blue Karvel carpet and royal blue Everflex weather equipment remained the standard used even with the Teal blue interiors -
Here's some good pics of the standard dark blue used on BN1's and BN2's throughout production:
Notice with the armrest removed below, the original blue colour of Karvel carpet with dark blue vinyl edging - both colours faded with exposure, the carpet turned to a grey colour, while the blue got a bit lighter over time.
Moving on to the Reds:
Another colour that a lot of Healey 100 owners often don't get right, is the standard Red/Persimmon interior colour scheme offered as "Red" on BN1's and early BN2's painted Black, White, Carmine Red or even Coronet Cream!
Like the Teal scheme, the factory decided to use some high contrasting material colours together:
The carpet, Armacord and Everflex weather equipement were all in a medium Scarlet Red shade, while all the vinyl and leather were done in a very bright contrasting Persimmon shade.
Persimmon is another colour that can act like a chameleon after decades of sun and wear -
A number of years ago my father and I restored a '54 BN1 that had all of it's original Red/Persimmon interior still intact. I was given the task of carefully cleaning all the interior components and reinstalling them on the car.
What I found was the Persimmon would fade out to a bright Orange over time, though in areas unexposed I could see it started life as a very bright Red with a faint Orangy hue when compared to the darker red carpet and Armacord:
Look at the variations of colour saturation! It's evident how orange the Persimmon became over time, though it actually started a very bright red:
Persimmon was also seen used on the piping in Carmine Red cars with black trim -
Black interiors with Red piping were offered with Carmine Red and Reno Red cars, the carpet, vinyl, leather, Armacord and Everflex would all have been Black with only the seat & armrest piping being in contrasting Red.
At the end of 1955 as the BN2's evolved, the Carmine Red paint scheme was discontinued in exchange for Reno Red.
Subsequently, the Persimmon shade of interior was also discontinued and replaced with a slightly more scarlet looking shade of red leather and vinyl that better matched the Red carpet and Armacord.
Here's some examples of the later red that replaced the Persimmon shade after December 1955:
Notice how the upper surfaces of the seats have indeed faded to a slightly more orange hue - though make no mistake, these are a much darker shade of Red than the previous Persimmon!
The last interior colour I'm going to feature is the Green colour scheme that was offered with cars painted Spruce green, Old English White, or Black.
It used a variety of different shades of green to create what I consider to be a truly elegant interior colour scheme!
The leather and vinyl were both a dark green with only slight contrast between the 2 materials...
Armacord was a bright Emerald green with contrasting Dark Green vinyl binding...
And to finish it off, it had this Sage Green Everflex used for all the weather equipment:.
Unfortunately, Sage Green Everflex is completely unavailable nowadays, so restorers must settle for a Dark Green Everflex instead..
Black and White:
Of course there were a few more less colourful interior schemes left that I haven't mentioned yet:
There was an off White leather & vinyl colour that was used with Black carpet, Armacord and piping. This was only available for 6 months on Black BN1's only:
To finish, I'd like to leave you with a colour chart made by Roger Moment that lists all of these colour schemes by date and body number -
I have done a lot of research to source just about all of these original materials in the correct colours for reproducing Healey 100 interiors accurately.
The only materials that are unavailable in the correct colours are the Green Karvel, Everflex and Armacord, as well as the Teal Armacord - although I have found decent substitutes for the carpet and Everflex, and can custom dye the Armacords.
For Concours accurate upholstery for your Healey, come to:
Until next time -
Since my last post I've been so busy with upholstery work I haven't had time to work on my BN1 until yesterday.
In the meantime however, I was able to order in all the necessary replacement metal panels including a pair of outer sills, lower rear fender repair panels, a front fender repair panel, and a new front cross member.
Yesterday morning I had my friend Jason come by with his full sized pick-up truck. Together we were able to lift my chassis in to the box and strap it down so he could take it up to Jetstream Automotive for all the metal and paint work to be done.
The chassis just barely fit in the back of his truck which made transport really simple! - Thanks again Jason!
With my car out of the way, I can now bring in some more upholstery jobs that I already have lined up for the next several months. Including a few other Healey's!
After Jason left with my chassis, I got to work on cleaning up and restoring some more parts for my BN1...
I started by refurbishing my battery shut off switch.
I thoroughly cleaned and polished it and repainted the black upper face under the switch knob,
I also polished the Bakelite knob and repainted the off white lettering...
Next I cleaned up the overdrive relays and the original flasher unit - all date coded 12/53, they're original to the car...
To finish the day I cleaned up the original starter solonoid. Again dated for 12/53 - I'll get a new rubber dust cap to install over the push button.
Until next time - Happy Holidays!
Over the past 2 Saturdays I've had the unenviable task of hand stripping all the layers of old paint, primer and filler form all the aluminum body panels of my BN1.
While the main chassis and the outer side fenders and doors are all steel on my car. The front and rear shrouds as well as the bonnet and boot lid are made of soft/light aluminum.
The steel components I've decided will be sent out for sandblasting at Jetstream Automotive. Jason Stoch of Jetstream reviewed the process with me and explained that they only use fresh wet sand that actually contains a rust inhibitor in the liquid part.
This way, the heat/distortion is greatly reduced from the sand being wet.
The aluminum however needs to be treated very delicately. Any sort of blasting process will distort it.
So I'm left with either chemical dip stripping (which is very expensive and not available here on the island) or stripping the paint by hand...
So in preparation for the task, I first prepared my work area with some large poly tarps spread out on the floor. I rolled the car over the tarps and partially mounted the aluminum shrouds in place on the car.
I purchased some large tins of paint stripper - I recommend getting the gel type that stays wet/active for longer.
Then I armed myself with some heavy clothing that I don't mid destroying, some goggles, gloves, a respirator and some good hand tools for stripping -
I found these 3 tools to be the most effective:
-I start by globbing on the stripper heavily with a brush, I would wait about 10min for it to start bubbling the paint.
-Then I would use the big scraper to remove layers of paint.
Because my car had several layers of different colours, I had to re-apply stripper often to work my way through the layers.
-When ever I encountered any filler, I found the razor blade scraper to work best.
-Once I was down to basically the metal, I would scour the remaining residue off with the big wire brush...
Here are the results on the front shroud...
And again on the rear shroud...
and finally the bonnet -
and boot lid...
As you can see, I was quite happy to discover that all the aluminum panels are in great condition with almost no corrosion at all around the outer flanges (as often happens).
However I did find lots of dents that had been filled in with loads of filler. All the dents are going to need some careful working out.
The bonnet especially looks like someone probably laid on top of it!
Perhaps my car was once used in some publicity photo shoots with models laying across it?? - perhaps that's my bright imagination again...
Until next time -
Today I rebuilt the wiper motor and its mechanism for my BN1. This is the original one for the car dated for November 1953, and its number was even recorded in my cars Heritage build certificate.
I started by taking it apart in sub assemblies and cleaning and restoring each sub section. Starting with the wiper gear mechanisms and the long worm gear arm that connects them...
Followed by the main body and motor...
I cleaned out all the old grease, and carefully polished all the zinc plated metal parts.
Then I added some fresh grease as I reassembled the mechanical parts.
For the electric motor I simply cleaned and inspected everything. Polished the Bakelite top casing.
Finally I refinished the outer body in black wrinkle finish and reassembled everything with fresh grease on all the gear mechanisms..
I finished the day by cleaning and refurbishing the 2 smaller dash gauges for the fuel, oil and water. After carefully opening them up, I thoroughly cleaned everything. I repainted the black outer rims that were starting to flake off, and even repainted the tiny needles white as the original paint was flaking off of those too.. Fun stuff when it all goes well!
Finally this morning I finished refurbishing the brake fluid reservoir by adding the new decal to finish it off..
until next time...
Over the last few weekends I've put in some good hours on restoring some more components for my BN1. On Friday I stopped into our local 'Blast-It' center to sandblast a bunch of steel components and prepare them for re-painting.
Here's what I got done:
The fresh air duct valve, and all the pedals...
The under dash supports and bumper brackets...
The front lower spring pans,
I stripped and painted all the interior metal pieces including the tunnel sections, seat frames, parcel tray and battery box lid. The main tunnel section I had to strip by hand as it's made from aluminum that would distort if exposed to sandblasting.
All the interior pieces were primed and re-painted dark brown as original...
I also cleaned up a few cables for the hand brake, and speedometer...
and cleaned and polished all the Bakelite dash switches, and voltage regulator - many of which are also date coded and original to the car. I will need a new overdrive switch, air vent cable repair and new knobs for the wiper and headlight switches...
Today I focused on restoring the heater. I took it all apart and thoroughly cleaned and refurbished everything, carefully stripping and re-painting as needed. I even managed to mask and save the factory labels and date stamps I found on the blower motor...
and I carefully took apart and cleaned/restored the rheostat switch for the blower fan..
Finally I re-painted the main body in black wrinkle finish as original..
All that's left for the heater is to solder up a crack found near the end of one of the water lines and then source some accurate reproductions of the demister vent hoses...
Until next time...
Well now that the car is down to the bare chassis, I have several shelves and bags full of all the delicious parts to keep me very busy for quite a while. On Saturday I went in and randomly selected a few pieces and set to work cleaning and refurbishing them.
I started with the original Lucas ignition coil. I'm really hoping that this one is still in good working order! I cleaned the body using the bench grinder with a soft brass wire wheel. I used some simple green and a tooth brush to clean the Bakelite top, and some small brass wire wheel bits in my Dremel tool to clean all the contacts. I finished it off by masking the Bakelite top and spraying a coat of some satin black paint.
Next I tackled some of the firewall components like the fuse block and the throttle pedal/overdrive relay...
Again I cleaned the plastic with Simple Green and some elbow grease. I cleaned all the metal components and contacts with my little Dremel tool. I used a bit of metal polish on the aluminum relay box, and repainted the black linkage arm. Unfortunately I found a tiny broken return spring inside the relay box which I'll have to either find/or make a replacement for.
Next I tackled the flasher relay box - I cleaned and polished the aluminum body, cleaned all the contacts and screws individually and used some q tips and a toothbrush to clean around the rest...
Here's a before and after of the Smiths heater tap - it will eventually be painted light metallic green with the rest of the engine...
Last but not least, I also cleaned and polished the headlight dimmer switch...
Not bad for 5hrs on a Saturday! - I love taking my time and enjoying the restoration of each part like this, it allows me to learn about each piece intimately and it's hugely satisfying!
I'm also able to take notes on fastener hardware as I go so I know what I have and what might be missing for future reassembly to the car.
When I send all the fastener hardware out for plating later, these will be valuable notes to have when I have to sort everything out again!
Until next time -
The title says it all, this week I got the remaining parts and components off of the chassis. Now it's bare and ready for sandblasting and metal repairs..
I then finished off by removing all the remaining blanking plates on the firewall - note, the steering column plates seem to have been painted body colour on my car, but seem to have been installed after the body was first painted. I looked this up in the concours guidelines and sure enough, these plates and their screws were often hand painted body colour after installation. Check out the unexposed Healey blue under them, you can even see some of the faint metallic in the right light.
There were also a row of 4 flat head screws used to blank off the holes for mounting the solenoids on the R/H firewall if it had been RHD. These screws were black phosphate on my car and appear to be original...
Now the chassis is down to her bare bones and ready to send out for sandblasting in the next few months. In the meantime I'll start hand stripping all the aluminum shrouds, bonnet and boot lids.
Obviously the car has been re-sprayed red at some point in its life, mostly just the outer body and the main floor pans, engine and some of the firewall. They seem to have sprayed a white primer over the blue so the red would show in these areas.
It must have looked pretty bad in the engine bay because they were very messy and haphazard with it.
It's clear to see all the original Healey blue shining through everywhere though. Compared to many other original cars I've seen, mine seems to have been very thoroughly sprayed after the outer body panels were installed. The original black and in some cases red oxide primers are evident only in the areas Healey blue couldn't reach...
Yesterday I received my Heritage Certificate in the mail. As I thought, the car was built in December of 1953 - on the 28th to be exact.
Until next time...
Another work week has come and gone, and this past Saturday showed some more great progress on my BN1 Healey.
I had my good friend and fellow Healey owner Trevor Parker over in the afternoon to help me out with a few things. Trevor has a very original BN1 that's been in his family since the 70's and also owns a beautifully restored BN2/M, so he's been a great friend to help lend a hand, answer questions and generally 'talk Healey's with' - something I find myself doing a lot these days!
Trevor recently found a copy of the book "Healey 100 Profile" by John Wheatley. - A book
I distinctly remember looking through as a kid when my Dad owned it. In it, I was reviewing the Evolution pages of the Healey 100, where it actually lists dates and car numbers with the various subsequent changes.
I noticed that it would appear my car (chassis #150244, body 1221) was actually built in December of 1953 - not '54 like it's registered!
Also, if you notice the many changes happening at that time, it all makes sense!
- I have the earlier flat floor in the rear over the leaf springs
-one of my leaf springs is still the earlier and very thin/flimsy style!
-I have the unique 2 piece dash, but it's After they had made the change to a non-adjustable steering wheel, so the slot for the steering column was made narrower when they removed the adjustable column. In fact my style of dash would have only been seen on a few hundred cars between Dec '53- early spring '54 - when they introduced the single piece dash.
-my car would have been one of the first to get the revised hand brake lever assembly too.
-and was also of the first to have the redesigned (style 2) side curtains with the hand signalling flaps.
Neat stuff! It's so fun to research and notice these details on earlier cars as the marque evolved through the years!
I have yet to send away for my Heritage certificate from the UK to verify some of these dates, but I did get this bit of info through Randy Hicks - the Healey 100 registrar, (who took over from my Dad, Richard Chrysler when he passed away.):
It's nice to know Dad at least knew of this car at one point!
Getting back to the work we got done on Saturday, I removed the "revised" emergency brake handle and cable assembly. Interesting to find big flat head screws holding the handle in place..
I also removed all the brake and fuel lines that were left along the chassis, saving all the little clips that hold them in place..
Next, with Trevor's help and the use of some of his Whitworth tools, I unbolted the pan hard rod, the U bolts, and removed the rear axle assembly...
With the axle out, it's clear to see the inner frame work and the noticeable undercoating on the rear boot bulkhead and boot floor..
Finally I removed the rear leaf springs, as you can see I still had an early original one on the right side. It's no wonder the factory beefed them up soon after...
here you can see the earlier flat floor above the spring hanger. Later cars had a small step in the floor here to provide better clearance...
While I was busy working on the rear of the car, Trevor helped out with removing the front coil springs. He used a series of long threaded rods through the spring pan mounting holes with nuts and washers. He'd simply replace each original bolt one by one with a threaded rod and 2 nuts done up tight. Then just backed the nuts off evenly to extract the spring safely.
We finished the day by hoisting my engine up onto a proper rotisserie engine stand that Trevor let me borrow. Thanks again Trevor!
- If there's one thing I'm Thankful for, it's the friends I'm finding in the Healey community. It feels much like a family, full of good friends who genuinely seem to want to help each other out with these old cars. It's nice to be a part of, and I'm very grateful!
A few more steps were taken this week on my Healey BN1 #1221.
Firstly, I found some good used tunnel sections that I was needing through my friend Jason Stoch - these early BN1 tunnels can be hard to come by, so I'm glad to have found a good one that is correct in being the early (second) style of BN1 tunnel without the bulge near the back that was added to later BN1's.
I've continued on with careful disassembly and documentation of the car. I removed the drive shaft, noting the locking tabs for the bolts and marking the orientation of the driveshaft itself with the axle and gearbox.
Then I removed the rest of the pedals, starting with the mechanical clutch linkage:
Then the brake master cylinder, shaft, return spring and both brake and clutch pedals...
It's clear why there are little 'V' cutouts in the bottoms of the outer sills and fenders, I've noted this on another all original BN1 #1267 (only 46 numbers apart from mine) - it's to allow clearance for removal of the pivot shaft the pedals both pivot on. My car has this cut out on both sides!
On Saturday I spent the day at the shop continuing work on the car and got a lot of big steps done.
My shop has a huge steel i-beam running right over the the 2 garage bays where the cars park. It had been my intent to tie into that with a chain lift of some sort to lift anything I might want to.
So I purchased a great little 1 ton trolley for attaching to the i-beam, it has wheels in it so I can move it along the beam easily. Then I borrowed a simple ratcheting chain hoist from my friend and fellow Healey owner Trevor Parker and hooked it onto the trolley.
All set! - thanks Trevor!
I decided to remove the starter and gearbox first with the engine still in place, so I put a support jack under the rear of the engine and first pulled out the starter motor - which seems in pretty good shape..
I removed the gearbox stay rod from underneath..
Then I unbolted the gearbox, pulled it straight back to disengage the input shaft, and lifted the whole unit out of the cockpit by hand.. Here are some detail pics of the gearbox, supports and overdrive unit..
With the gearbox out I got to work on removing the engine itself.
I hooked up some chains and brackets to some opposing head studs, brought the chain hoist in, and out she came!
I was lucky I'd pulled the gearbox out first because I only had about 10" clearance to roll the car out from under the engine while it was in the air as high as it would go. If the gearbox had been on it would have hung a lot lower and on an angle.
With the engine out I jacked the car up high on some axle stands and took some good pics of the state of the metal on the chassis and frame...
As I thought, it looks like the chassis will need outer sills, lower rear door posts, a front cross member and some very minor patches here and there - not bad at all for an un-restored BN1!
The next steps will be removing all the front and rear suspension.
I've borrowed some custom made Healey brackets with heavy castor wheels on them from Jason at Jetstream. These 4 brackets will mount to the front bumper mounts at the front and the rear shock mounts on the rear frame and allow the chassis frame to remain elevated at a comfortable work height and easy to roll around - thanks again Jason!
I took some overall pics of the suspension components before dismantling...
There will be much more to come as I remove the suspension and get the bare chassis sent out for sandblasting.
Until next time -
It's been a productive couple of weeks on my Healey #1221. I've been carefully documenting with 100's of photos as I take her apart piece by piece.
With each piece I remove, I bag and tag the part and it's fastener hardware and take detailed photos of the piece and how it fit with the rest of the car. These are just a few of the hundreds of pics I've been taking...
With the interior trim already removed, I focused on removing the outer body panels next.
Here are the original aluminum door casing panels with the early narrow style of door latch and thin piping to finish the outer edge of the B pillar panel. This small bead of thin piping was usually colour coded to match with the exterior body colour of the car - in this case it was originally a light blue/grey.
These original door casings have tiny ovals in the aluminum pattern, unlike the repro's that have tiny circles instead.
With the door trims removed I was then able to remove the doors themselves and the front fenders. The big Phillips door hinge screws were a bit of a nightmare trying to get out, I managed to save most of them after many hours of penetrating oil & reasoning with an impact driver, heat & curse words. Unfortunately I had to drill out the last few of the more stubborn ones.
Here you can see a door check strap assembly & spacer.
Surprisingly both of the seem to be almost perfect! - in that they are rot and dent free. They both have small cracks where the door cord actuates the latch assembly - but these cracks can be easily welded.
The left front fender was actually only being held on by a few screws and wire, however the rest of the screws that had been previously removed were found in a pile on the parcel shelf so nothing seems to be missing. Once removed, the left fender proved to be in just about perfect condition! - no holes, no dents or distortion - a beautiful front fender!
The inner chassis structure under the fender also looks far better than I had expected which was another pleasant surprise!
I took careful notes as to the routing of the wiring and clips along the inner front fender/shroud seams...
Next I turned my attention to removing the rear fenders. I removed all the inner screws affixing it to the shroud/chassis, and the screws along the outer edge of the 'B' post.
I took note of the little rectangular clamp plates that are held in place by a countersunk machine screw along the inner rear cockpit rim on both sides.
With the rear fenders off I was pleased to find them both very intact, with only the front lower dog leg areas needing repair on both fenders. Most original cars are typically rotten here as it's a trap for water and road grime.
The inner chassis under the rear fenders reveals the extent of rot on the rear outer sill sections and the bottom parts of the rear door posts. Other than these areas though, the rest of the chassis seems very intact and structurally sound.
The front shroud is removed! she's had a bit of damage where she fastens to the lower frame members along the bottom front edge. But thankfully no metal is actually rotten or missing, it just needs some careful mending by an aluminum expert!
With the front shroud off, I turned my attention to the rear shroud removal - again lots of rivets to drill out all around and a few little screws along the upper edge of the boot opening..
And the rear shroud is off! I spent a bit of time carefully tapping out the dents and creases found in the rear where she probably backed into something.
Going back and forth working on the frame and the rear shroud itself, with the undamaged boot lid as a guide, I actually got it back about 90% of the way for it to be perfect again. The lid wouldn't even close when I first got it, now it closes with even gaps, it just needs a bit more fettling around the bottom right corner which I'll get more into later down the road.
With the body panels now removed, I got into removing the dash, heater, and inner firewall components - note, the steering column/dash support was painted body colour, as were the steering column blanking plates on the firewall.
As it turns out, the larger tachometer and speedometer gauges are ones from a BN2. I'll find a good set from a BN1 and swap them back again someday.
With the inner firewall all clear, I moved onto removing the radiator. It had some non-original Allen screws used to hold it in place, so clearly it's been out before, but it does seem to be the original rad, dated Jan, 1953.
In the boot, I noted the wiring having a noticeable fleck in the loom pattern, as compared to the totally black loom seen all over the front of the car, and it had been wrapped in electrical tape where it went along the floor area beside the gas tank and through the bulkhead - is this original tape??
I finished the week by removing the carburetors, manifolds and exhaust. Noting the throttle linkage arrangement, exhaust supports etc. It was nice to find the carburetors still lubricated and not seized inside.
I believe this could be the original exhaust too - though I cant find any Burgess logo's on it - in any case it will need replacement! When I tipped it up a large pile of nut shells came out from years of squirrels hiding and forgetting their stash!
The original Lucas coil - would have been black with a golden label around the bottom. Also the original distributor...
Lots of parts and bags of hardware to go through and restore piece by piece. Should keep me busy over the next few years at least... Good organization, documentation and labeling are absolutely crucial at this stage!
Well she's going up up for sale! Anyone who has followed my blog over the past few years will know - this early MGB is the BEST one out there. She's a concours example, sporting all the original, hard to find early MGB parts and details.
Such early original parts and details like:
-all the original Lucas lighting including the early clear marker lights and headlamps
-her original early riveted grill
-the early style oil cooler with rounded corners
-original style brake and clutch master cylinders which are not available new
-the early 3 main bearing engine
-the early pull type door handles
-all the original early decals and tags like the early Tudor washer bottle lettering and early heater lettering which are not available
-all her original type of carpet which is not available
-all the original interior vinyl has been maintained throughout
-all the original rubber floor mats
-early style door capping rails
-original tonneau and boot covers in their original stowage bags
-original jack, knock-off hammer in the original bag
-original manuals and sales brochures included
The list goes on and on - I was careful to maintain as much original parts as possible because the original quality is so much better than the repro's available today.
She's as original and pristine as they come. Featuring body and paintwork by Coachwerks. She's won awards, she runs and handles beautifully. She even has a full new set of Blockley vintage style tires. She's going to make her next owner very happy!
Check out this video:
I need to get $40K Canadian for her, which is roughly $31K US, you can contact me directly if interested.
Until next time -
On Wednesday this week I got together with friends and fellow Healey owners Jason Stoch (of Jetstream Auto) and Trevor Parker. Together we borrowed Jason's truck and trailer and took the morning ferry over to the mainland and drove down to Blaine Washington to pick up my newest acquisition to the family - a 1954 Austin Healey 100, BN1 #1221.
She's now in my home shop and as you can see - she's a fairly solid and complete car!
This blog entry marks the beginning of many posts chronicling the documentation and restoration of this car. I'm mostly showing the overall condition and state of the car in these pics, so without further ado, let's begin with the engine compartment:
The front fenders are very solid and so too are the inner wheel arches and frame structure. Note the early multi sectioned inner wheel arches,.
Her original radiator complete with date and - batch numbers?
original distributor, starter, oil filter and even coil! - though the generator is from a later model. The foot wells on the firewall have both been hacked open and then re-sealed with a bunch of little screws - perhaps someone wanted to fit a larger engine and then changed their mind?
In the front behind the grill - lots of Healey blue paint everywhere! - she's missing some inner shrouding panels though that would normally block the view across here...
the lower front fenders still very intact with the curious "v"cutouts on the lower flanges near the pedal mounts on both sides - we've seen this on some other cars...
All the cockpit rails are intact, as is the original 2 piece dash with Healey blue showing through on the gauge cluster..
Both doors are very solid!
All the cockpit floors, frame and inner sills are intact and solid. The gearbox is complete, as is the heater....
In the rear cockpit, lots of her original dark blue trim...
The boot is also very solid - some minor holes in the floor, but overall very good!
The rear shroud has been hit in the rear center/right. The damage seems minimal and has been mostly pulled out already. You can see the right rear frame member is a bit distorted. The rear fenders don't seem to have been affected, but she has a replacement boot lid from car #4068 - still aluminum as it should be though.
And there you have it! lots of work and detailed progress reports to come -
Until next time, I'll leave you with some pics of my Dads last BN1 that was in the exact colours this one will be once it's all done...
Well I have big news! My beautiful 1964 MGB that I have worked so hard on restoring to concours spec... is going up for sale!
Over the next few weeks I'll be working with Richard Owen of Owen Automotive, to get the car properly documented and photographed to highlight just how correct, original and beautiful this car really is.
Obviously if you've been following my blog over the past few yrs, you already know. She's in tip top shape, and runs and drives like a dream. It's going to be hard to say goodbye to her.
If you would be interested in buying this beauty, you can contact me directly for more info.
The one and only reason I could ever have to sell this beauty, is that I have found my life long dream car, and I can only afford to keep one...
The dream car I've recently acquired is a 1954 Austin Healey 100-4 BN1.
Growing up, my late father (Richard Chrysler) became somewhat of an international authority on Healey's, especially the earlier 100-4's.
He was one of the founders of the National Concours comittee, and was the the 100/4 registrar for years - collecting information from the various cars still in existence around the globe and starting to really document various production changes in detail.
I grew up around these Healey's, and for me, it's always been in my blood to finally own and restore one for myself.
The car that I've found is an early (January)1954 car, It's fairly complete and looks to be in fair condition as far as "project car" goes. I think she'll be a good candidate for restoration.
It will be several years of passionate work - and blog posts - to get her all done to concours spec. I'm looking forward to every step and doing as much as I can myself.
Being a January '54 car, it should still have all the "early" BN1 features such as an aluminum bonnet and trunk lid, 2 piece dash, early BN1 interior trim, style 2 side screens, "Austin of England" badge on the trunk lid, etc, etc, etc....
- and wouldn't you know it, the cars body number 1221 happens to be my Birthday! haha
As you can see in some of the pics, she was originally painted Healey Blue with a dark blue interior. I'll certainly be restoring her back to that.
Lots of metal repair and parts will be needed, but over all the frame looks solid, the car is fairly complete, and as far as project cars go - this looks to be in much better shape than some of the cars I remember Dad restoring over the years!
Well, I'll leave it at that for now. Stay tuned for many future articles covering the detailed photo doucumentation, and disassembly of the car, as I get into her journey of meticulous restoration. I am very honoured and excited to bring this car back to life!
Until next time -
The car is an early Austin Healey BN1 #793, it's one of a small hand full of BN1's that were originally painted "Coronet Cream" - a colour the factory introduced in 1953 in honour of the new Queen's Coronation. It was the colour of her dress
during her Coronation ceremony. www.cbsnews.com/pictures/queen-elizabeth-iis-coronation-regalia-on-display/
It was originally offered with either a persimmon red or, a dark blue interior colour - of which we chose the latter.
The owner of this car wanted the high standards of a concours restoration and so gave the task of restoring the car to Michael Salter (formerly of Precision Sportscar Specialists). Mike is an old friend of my late Father (Richard Chrysler) and knows all the details of the Healey 100's very well. In fact, he is the new concours guidelines editor for the Healey 100's in the national Healey club.
He won Gold for his own early 100 #174 just a few years ago - a car that I did the interior on in Ontario, just before moving my new business to Victoria:
So, several months ago I got the call from Michael wondering if I'd be interested in doing all the interior trim for this Coronet cream car, and if I'd be willing to fly to his beautiful cottage home in Ontario to do the installation. All I can say is, it's cars like this that got me interested in auto upholstery in the first place, and it's jobs like this that keep me super keen!
So back in the spring I set to work producing all the interior trim components for this early 100 at my home shop in Victoria. I made everything up as kits ready to install, and then shipped it all out to Mike's place in Ontario. Then I flew out with all my tools the following week and Mike set me up in his beautiful lake front cottage where I got to work trimming and installing all of the interior components on the car.
I started with seats - I made my own new plywood seat bases and my own new seat foams, as well as the leather covers with grey piping I made as original...
It was enjoyable and rewarding to work on a Healey 100 again that has clearly been done right. I enjoyed talking shop and discussing details with Michael while I worked on this project. A pic of the engine bay shows his meticulous attention to detail and originality:
With the seats finished, I started on the floor coverings. I first put in some black tar paper on the main floor pans and then installed all the jute under felt, Karvel carpets, and Armacord.. You'll notice on these earliest cars, the under-seat Armacord did not have cutouts for the seat tracks, as these earlier cars had adjustable steering wheels, the seats were bolted directly to the floor without any seat tracks..
Then came the rear bulkhead area with the rear wheel arches, Armacord coverings, spare wheel bag, and battery box lid...
Then I finished these areas with the addition of the armrest and finished seats
Next I turned my attention to the boot and installed all the boot Armacord, complete with a full new set of accessory bags for the side curtains, jack and tools. Notice the early style of boot mat and boot seal...
Then came the doors, I trimmed these while they were still off the car and then together we hung them to the car after they were trimmed...
With the interior done, I turned my attention to the top and top frame. I cleaned and painted the frame and then installed it to the car with a new wood header rail Michael had made. I also went around and installed all the necessary Tenax snap/fastener hardware to the body of the car...
Finally I fit the new Robbins Everflex top...
And there you have it, another beautiful Healey 100 on it's way to achieving Gold!
I thoroughly enjoyed working on this car, capturing all the early details and visiting with Michael Salter and his family at their lovely home in Northern Ontario to install the interior.
I look forward to seeing this car finished and on the road in the coming months!
Until next time -
Over the past few months I've been producing by hand, all the interior trim for a couple of upcoming Austin Healey 100's I'm doing this summer.
One is for an early 1953 BN1 car that will be painted in the rare "Coronet Cream" with a contrasting Dark Blue interior and Grey piping on the seats.
The other is for a 1956 BN2 car that will be painted Black with a Persimmon red interior.
This article will show the differences in upholstery for the two marques...
I started with making the new seat covers, I sourced some good quality leather with natural grain, in the correct colours, with hand made piping & Hidem strips, complete with the vinyl pieces for covering the lower cushion pans.
For the trimming of these seats I also produced all my own seat foams and wood seat bases made completely in house.
Next I made the center armrests, the one for the BN1 being the longer 19" style and the BN2 having the shorter 17" style.
Then came the carpets sets. In these next pics I'm showing the new Karvel carpet sets I made for the BN1 and BN2.
Both are cut as original with vinyl edging on only a few of the center tunnel pieces.
They have the correct "Austin" rubber heel pads sewn in place over top of the previously installed front carpet snaps - a detail that many other manufactures forget to do before sewing in the heel pads.
The BN1 tunnel is a very different design and has a few more carpet sections than the BN2...
Next I made all the interior trim panels and vinyl covers. The kick panels and B-post panels were cut from 1/8" birch ply with the edges sanded round before being trimmed in vinyl. The BN1 kick panels are a taller profile than the BN2's.
The inner door panels were cut from black panel board and trimmed. Also included are the wheel arch covers and vinyl to complete the doors and parcel tray...
The door panels were also cut from birch ply with the edges sanded to a curved bevel. Then they're trimmed with 1/8"foam and vinyl.
On the lower insides of BN1's door panels there was a brown suede like material sewn to the inner edge of the vinyl cover and glued in place.
The later BN1's/BN2's had this material done instead with matching vinyl and the entire pocket opening had a seam stitched through the panel about 5/8" in from the edge. - early BN1's did not have this stitching at all.
To finish, I cut and trimmed the Furflex door seals along the front and back edges to complete the panels.
I then cut and bound all the Armacord linings for the rear cockpit and the boot compartments of both cars.
Notes: - the early BN1's had a much fatter spare wheel bag then the later BN1's&BN2's. .
-BN2's also had Armacord to cover the rear tunnel section, whereas BN1's used carpet...
In the boot, the early BN1's had a different style of main gas tank cover and also had longer side floor mats as well, as you can see...
Finally I also made new accessory bags to complete the interior kits for both cars. I included bags for the side screens, tool roll, jack and handles. All as original with the correct snaps and materials.
To finish these kits off I will be making new tonneau covers for both cars and supplying all the necessary hardware kits and jute under felt required.
Austin Healey owners take note - I'm now geared up and producing all of this interior trim for anyone needing it - only available in any of the original colours!
As many of you know, I've built my name on being a purist who pays close attention to getting the details right. Other companies have failed to reproduce the subtle variations and details that I have captured with my kits. I am happy and proud to be able to offer these complete interior trim kits for the Healey 100's at least for now. There will be more Healey trim available as I perfect my patterns for the rest of the various marques.
Available now through:
Until next time -
It's been a busy month of May for Rightway Heritage Trimming!
To start with, I moved into a new shop in the Highlands area of Victoria BC. Just off of Munn Rd on Rolla place, I'm all set up in my new shop with much more room to finally be able to take in customers cars for "in house" upholstery work.
I also had a table set up at the OECC restoration Fair at Heritage Acres on May 6th. With our sign set up and '64 MGB parked in front as a shining example of what we do, we met lot's of new and familiar faces and handed out plenty of business cards throughout the show.
After the restoration fair I was hard at work on several local clients cars, working feverishly to have their cars finished for the big British car show at Vandusen Gardens in Vancouver on May 19th.
Working along side the guys up at Owen automotive (who did the mechanical and assembly work) and Jetsteam (who did the metal and paint) we finished a beautiful S2 E-type Jaguar, and a Morris Traveller.
I also finished a Healey 100M for Trevor Parker. All of which were finished in time and driven to the show as debut restorations.
On the morning of the show I drove our '64 MGB with my lovely partner Cat Amodeo and we joined the convoy of British classics on the morning ferry run over to Vancouver.
It was a beautiful drive with the top down as we drove in convoy with our other friends and British classics along the highways.
The ABFM show at Vandusen was a brilliant show with a record turnout of cars.
I won best debut restoration under $50k for my MGB!
Trevor Parker won best restoration between $50-$100k for his Healey 100 (that we did the interior on), and Dana won best debut to the show for his E-type Jag (which we also did the interior on) - there was also a Healey BJ8 that we did last year that won best of its class! All in all, it was a glorious feeling for us to have had a hand in so many award winning cars. My name was even mentioned in the Globe and Mail:
I'm very honoured and proud of the results.
until next time -
Over the past year I've had a few early Porsche 911's to restore the interiors on. One was a '65 in Bahamas yellow with a black interior and the other was a '66 in Slate grey with a red interior.
In both cases I decided to use interior kits from Autos International who are reputable Porsche interior specialists. I purchased carpet, headliner and panel kits as well as seat covers and new molded latex seat foams.
While I could make all of these things from scratch, it saves a fair amount of time and money to just buy these components already sewn. Whenever I use kits from another source I always inspect the build quality and especially the stitching. I often run components through my sewing machine again just to tighten up seams that might not be up to my standard, or make alterations if necessary.
It's interesting to follow original brochure literature from the time - it shows that the carpets on these were usually black velour, the seats came with either embossed (leather or vinyl) seat centers or hounds tooth in corresponding colours.
As usual, I started by documenting and restoring all the interior components first. I strip and repaint all the seat frames, replace or restore all the seat foams and armrest foams. Then recover the various components with new leather or vinyl covers, trimmed as original with the hand stitching as required.
I always take loads of pics to capture all the trimming details as I take things apart so I can restore each component properly.
The first thing I install on the car is the headliner and all the insulation -
Then comes carpet - in both cases the customers chose to use German square weave carpet which was the Porsche factory standard on earlier cars like the 356. It's a good looking carpet and its very durable as well. The rear areas always require some work in smoothing out the contours with underlay before the carpet is glued in place.
Next step is to install the panels. First I make sure the inner door mechanisms are all installed and working smoothly. Then make sure to add vapor barrier before installing the door panels. The rear panels always require a bit of coaxing and attention to detail to get in properly. Sometimes carpet needs to be packed out in corners to avoid gaps.
I had already re-trimmed all the original waist rails and armrests so these components were all ready to install with the panels...
The dash top and lower dash surround both had to be restored and re-trimmed separately. These I restored with new foam and leather/vinyl respectively. Then re-installed to the car with the addition of some new wood and freshly restored gauges to finish the dash.
Next I finished the rear seat areas by installing all my freshly restored rear seats...
You'll notice on the '65 car in black, the rear seat cushions had leather skirts glued and hand stitched to the carpet around the lower cushions. A neat detail found on these earlier cars!
Then came time to install my finished front seats to finish off the interior..
Last but not least - the boot interior carpets were installed -
And there you have it! - 2 beautiful early Porsche 911's with freshly restored interiors.
I've always had a huge love of Porsche and the clean lines and styling of the early 911's make it a timeless classic.
It's always an honor getting to work on cars like these - Inevitably I was feeling so inspired that I went and built a few scale models of these cars as I was working on the real thing lol. But that's for another article...
Until next time -
In a recent trip to Ikea, I picked up another glass display cabinet to contain my growing collection of 1/24 scale model car kits. I thought I would share some pics of the collection...
Each piece is a plastic or resin kit that I had to build and paint and detail myself. I've never been one to collect diecast or "finished" pieces, I very much enjoy the building process and researching each model to get the details and factory colours right.
The first shelf features my collection of Mercedes 300SL's - the 722 racer is a Monogram kit, the silver gullwing SLR beside it is a Revell kit, the sand coloured roadster is the Itilleri kit and the metallic sage green gullwing is the new Tamiya kit.
Next is a shelf of Jaguars: The D-Type is a modified Tamiya slot car kit, The XKSS is a Revell kit, The white XK 120 a Revell kit, and the C-type is a K&R replicas kit
Next we have a group of Porsche's all of which are built from the excellently detailed Fujimi kits, there are a pair of early 911's, a blue 356 cabrio, and a blue 356 speedster, and a light green 356 coupe
Next is a shelf of some miscellaneous cars: a Revell MGB, an AMT 300SL, a Momogram TR3, and aTamiya VW beetle
The next shelf features my collection of big Healey's - all made using the same old Revell kit from the 60's (heavily modified to make the various marques): the blue&white 100/6 (stock kit), the blue 100/4 BN1, the green 100/S noj393, and the florida green&white 100/6 BN6
Next we have the pre & post war cars: a Revell Bentley blower, a black Heller Alfa Romeo, a Monogram Bugatti and a Monogram MG-TC
Moving along with some more British classics: a Gunze Bugeye Sprite, Revell MGB, Gunze TR2, and a Tamiya Mini Cooper S
In the Japanese section we have a Hasegawa Mazda Cosmo, a Tamiya Honda S500, and a Hasegawa Toyota S2000
No collection would be complete without some Ferrari's: here's an Italeri 250 SWB, an Academy "California" and a Fujimi 250 GTO
A bit of a mix here: in the back a Revell Porsche 904, a Monogram Jaguar E-type coupe, and some Revell E-type roadsters
A couple of Lotus's help fill out the British section; a lotus super 7 by Tamiya, and an elan made by Gunzi
Finally to top it off, a shelf of Aston Martin's: a Doyshua DB5, DB4, and a Porfil24 DB2/3
Of course there's plenty of kits still in the box ready to build:
Until next time -
It's that time of year again, the days are getting longer, warmer (some days), spring is in the air!
This week I put a few days of work in on getting the old MGB ready for the season.
Back in November she quit on me one day and I wasn't able to get her running again, being that it was already safe at home, I left it alone for the winter until just recently.
I gave her an oil change, full lube, new plugs, new coil, and new condenser, and topped it off with some fresh gas (I had drained the tank back in November)
Sure enough she started right up and runs as smooth as ever!
So yesterday I went and got her insurance & plates renewed and got all my application forms to apply for some Collector Vehicle license plates.
Today I went about installing and wiring my new Lucas fog lamps that I got for Christmas. When it was all done and working, I took her out for her first drive of the season! It was an amazingly beautiful day to say the least!
When I returned home I parked the car outside and took all the necessary pics I need for the insurance company. She's looking really good so I thought I would share some of them...
Until next time -
Recently I made up a full set of new accessory bags for the Austin Healey 100/4's.
These bags included a jack bag, a jack handles bag, a bag for the tool kit, and the side screen bag.
While there are other companies making these bags, no one is making them in the correct thin oil cloth like vinyl that they originally were, nor are others getting the correct sewing, or the right size/style snaps that these came with.
The side screen bag was fairly easy because it's the only one of the bags that was originally done in the same colour matching vinyl to what the rest of the interior used.
I was able to find a good original example to use in making accurate patterns from and I went about reproducing it exactly as the factory did.
The only tricky part was finding a source for the correct size and shape of snaps.
I was able to contact some of the leading Healey concours experts who graciously helped me in identifying and sourcing the right snaps and providing me with patterns and instructions for making the remaining bags.
Working closely with some original examples and the advise of some concours experts, I was able to find a very good match for the super thin black material that the originals were made of and got to work producing the new bags.
Here is the tool roll coming together with an original example shown to compare
The finished set of bags turned out great and will make a beautiful addition for anyone wanting to finish their car to concours spec with these original accessories.
Now that I've sourced all the right patterns and materials, I will be producing these bags to order and making them available for anyone needing them.
Of course the side screen bag would have to be colour matched to the interior vinyl, but with a mailed sample, I can usually find a good match.
Order yours today through www.rightwayheritagetrim.com
Until next time -
Last year I had the opportunity to do the interior trim work on a number of rare classics. Perhaps non so rare though as the iconic Mazda Cosmo series 1.
This was the first model of car that Mazda ever produced and it also featured the first of their "Wankel" rotary engines to be used in a car.
They didn't make a huge amount of these Cosmo's and in fact they were never really sold to the North American market. While obviously a few of them did make it over here they were all built right hand drive.
This car as it was, had had a few interior changes over it's life including the addition of some more modern seats probably out of an RX7 or something.
The original seats and carpets were long gone and the new owner wanted to set the car back right again or as close as we could get it to original spec.
As you can see, the above pics show the newer aftermarket brown seats that someone had installed in the car and below is a pic of what the original seats would have looked like:
Since original seats are not available for these cars, I had to modify what we had to try and make some new seats that had the right look of what the Cosmo seats should be.
The seats provided at least had a similar hinge structure to the originals so I decided to use the existing frames and just modify them and reshape them to be more like the original style. I removed the headrest assemblies, cut down and re-shaped the bolsters and made new foams and seat covers.
Here is my final results:
The dash was originally a factory molded design that was still in pretty good shape so we ended up removing and just re-dying it in black.
I started the interior restoration by removing the old tunnel cover and sewing up a new one in black vinyl, installed with new foam under it.
Then I made up a new carpet set in Burgundy wool carpet (as original) and began installing it with all new under felt...
I made all new vinyl covers and panels and installed them in the rear cockpit. Here is a before and after shot:
The original door panels also had some factory heat molded design elements that would be almost impossible to recreate. So since they were still in decent shape, I was able to re-use the molded armrests and covers and just replace the inner panels and re-dye them to match.
I replaced the door seals and all the rest of the vinyl panels in the forward cockpit, and then finally re-installed the new custom seats..
Here's some before and after pics of the overall interior:
There you have it - another one back on the road looking like it should.
Until next time -
Since my last post about a month ago. I've been happily enjoying driving my freshly restored MGB. I've been working out lots of little kinks and fine tuning to get her running and performing beautifully.
It's been a tremendous help having such an informative online community like 'The MG Experience' and You Tube, and of course my friends and colleagues in the car community, to learn from and help diagnose these common issues myself.
I've rebuilt and fine tuned the carburetors, chased down the odd oil leak, and tightened such things as the e-brake, or hose clamps.
As little things have been addressed and maintained, the car has been getting better with each drive.
I've put almost 600miles on her in the past month since she's been on the road, and my confidence in driving her has been getting better all the time.
I've added some finishing details like the top, as well as some home made decals for the heater, and windscreen. These are decals that are different on the early cars and unavailable. So I found or made the correct artwork on my computer and simply printed my decals on some glossy sticker paper.
Last week, I drove the B up to Cowichan to attend the Vancouver Island Motor Gathering. It was a great day and the car drove well all the the way there and back.
It's a wonderful feeling to be finally driving and enjoying this car the way it was meant to be. The sounds and smells of the car mixed with the sounds and smells of the ocean breeze as she effortlessly hugs the curves... It's a beautiful romance, and I'm totally in love! Haha!
Until Next time -
Well it's been a very busy month to say the least! I've been super busy with work in the classic car upholstery world, and filling many evenings and weekends with work on the MGB. But she's come a long way!
As you can see, she's just about done! I've finished off hooking up the engine, fuel, electrical, oil and cooling systems in the engine bay,
Here's some before and after shots:
Underneath, I hooked up the new emergency brake cable, bled all the brakes and clutch with fresh fluid, and installed the manifolds and exhaust...
I got a new SU fuel pump and installed it with a new 'Smiths Petro-flex' hose and finished hooking up the fuel system with the carburetors, throttle cable and choke cable..
I also finished the interior with all the window mechanisms, door panels, top frame and 'seat belts,..
before and after of the seats:
Then this past weekend, I had friend/co-worker Eric Cherniff come by for an afternoon and help me with setting the timing, bleeding the brakes, and getting the car started.
After some ignition and choke/mixture adjustments, she fired right up! Needless to say, It was an exciting and gratifying day!
Of course there's still lots of bugs and issues to tune and fix before she's ready for the road.
She has a few oil leaks that need addressing, and the radiator has a pinhole leak in the upper tank, so I'll have to remove and send that out for repair.
My new convertible top has yet to be installed too, and of course alignment, fine tuning the carburetors etc.
But, she's almost there!
It's been a wonderfully educational and gratifying experience to say the least.
I can't wait to get her out in this beautiful top-down weather and stretch her legs driving some of the amazing roads that Vancouver Island has to offer!
Until next time -
Another weekend of major progress on the B!
I came home from work Friday evening with a cherry picker that I was able to borrow for the weekend. I had already made plans with my neighbor John to help me install the engine Friday evening, so that's exactly what we did!
It took a few attempts to get the angle of the engine & gearbox right as we maneuvered it in place. I also had to remove the oil filter for clearance, and used a rolling jack under the gearbox to help lift it clear of the frame cross-member and level the engine as we guided her in place.
All in all, it went very smoothly! we got her all in and all bolted up without any real issues or damage.
With the weight of the engine now in place, I was able to use a jack to install the front coil springs and then the front wheels after cleaning and re-greasing the wheels and splined hubs.
The following days Saturday and Sunday, I continued rolling with the progress!
I had friends Richard Owen and Norman Thomas come by on Saturday to help me install my newly restored windshield. It was another tricky job that required lots of eyes and hands, but we got her in place with great success!
I then installed the Radiator, oil cooler, generator and all their respective hoses in the engine compartment,
I installed the gas tank with new rubber buffers in the straps and between the boot floor,
Then I finished off the boot space with the spare wheel, jack and hammer, tonneau bars, tonneau cover and boot covers - all original pieces in their original stowage bags.
There's not much else going on in the trunk of an MGB,
While I was at it, I test fit the tonneau bars, and then the boot cover and my NOS tonneau cover. They all fit, though the NOS tonneau cover will need some hot days in the sun to help smooth out some of the wrinkles it has after being folded in a bag for 50yrs,
There's more to come as the B gets closer to completion, stay tuned!
-I know I will be!
until next time -
Classic auto enthusiast, upholsterer, coach trimmer, and fine scale modeler.